The small box at the bottom centre, which rather spoils the image, shows the ship’s dimensions, 47 x 52cm. So, on with construction then, with bag 1.
The wing opening mechanism is, as you might expect, the most complex part of the model. The clear gearbox block, which you can just about make out on the left, is mounted upside down.
You can begin to see how the wings are operated. The axles with the new cross blocks you can see above are rotated via the gear on the right which forces the wing-bearing struts apart.Here it is from another angle, with the wings closed. Bag 3 tidies it up and completes the rear fuselage assembly. The 4 x 4 dish and circular brick rotate to operate the wing opening mechanism. Bag 4 constructs the tapered body, by way of brick hinges. It is now that you have to attempt the sticker, if you are brave enough!
Here’s the instructions for applying the sticker: 1.
Lego Star Wars Ucs Red Five X Wing Starfighter Review 10240
Solid Brix Studios Reviews: Ages 16+ | Pcs.1559 | $199.99 Thank You for watching my review on this set, don’t forget to subscribe …
Basically there is not a hope in hell of getting the sticker on satisfactorily, straight and without air bubbles or fluff under it. Luckily it does not look too bad without the stickers, but nevertheless it would have been so much better if they’d printed the canopy, which in a premium priced model such as this, you would perhaps expect. There are two left-handed ones and two right-handed ones, which are mounted diagonally opposite each other. Bag 9 builds the engines, again two pairs are constructed identically. Finally, bag 10 builds the weapons that are mounted at the end of the wings. The wing opening mechanism is far more robust. On the old version, when the wings were fully opened or closed, rotating the knob further resulted in the gears grinding. This version makes good use of the many new parts that have become available since 2000 to give it a more streamlined look. The back of the engines look excellent (using this part in grey) and they are not prone to falling off like they were on the old one. But, it’s still a bit technicolour , isn’t it!
Consequently, they also look out of place in grey. There is no chance at all that you’ll be able to apply the canopy stickers perfectly, unless you do so in a vacuum, so bear that in mind before buying: if you can’t live with the model without the canopy sticker applied, don’t buy it. Thanks to vast improvements in its construction you can swoosh it around without fear of bits of wing or engine falling off, too. Keep an eye out on the home page for news of its release. Eurobricks has just published their review, which goes in to a very high level of detal. Set is amazing, there are so many details, that you could count them hours and it’s very simillar to film model. Also, thank you for great review, which has changed my mind about it. Lego may well win in the longrun too, it’ll be my first modular – a new obsession to sap my cash!
Clean the cockpit with windex or any glass cleaner or even slightly soapy water. Apply the stickers to the still wet area and then they will move around freely.
I was lucky to get a preview of this set at my local store. The set really does look impressive and the wing mechanism is perfect. Why introduce complex new printing machines just for this one piece in this one set?
The expectation is presumably that an audience of adults or kids who are into high-detail model kits will be “grown up” enough to apply stickers carefully and effectively.
Then cut off a narrow section of the backing sheet. If you get this and you fail by putting the stickers what do you going to do ?
Some people certainly are obsessed with mentioning on every occasion how long the poles are they are not going to touch stickers with. But other people are equally obsessed with mentioning on every occasion how they don’t mind stickers, and nobody ever should. The former won’t purchase the set, or won’t apply the stickers; the latter will. Ultimately it’s a matter of personal preference, can’t we all just get along. The soap will allow you to move and position the sticker as you like. When you’re happy, carefully squeeze the water out from under the sticker from centre-to-edge, letting the glue take hold of the plastic. It’s fine to hate stickers, but a review like this could do without that level of hyperbole and melodrama. Not the actual sticker, but the part that surounds it. Then you just peel a fraction in one side so you can cut the back paper.
Lego 10240 Review
This will make your life easier when aplying. The tecnique with soapy water works great also. Wing stand out and when you view it from one side, the colour pattern also makes it a mosaic. The only way to improve this substantially is by replacing all dark red parts to orange and the grey to old grey (if at all possible).
I also dislike stickers too, but they are manageable to apply.
I could get half of the canopy stickers on without a problem.
I was swooning over it and without a second thought bought it, took it home, and built it in a day.
I never bothered to rebuild it for a couple of reasons.
Review Of LEGO 10240 1
It needed and still needs some serious cleaning, and the condition of the stickers was in bad shape. Try and peel them off and you would regret that action for they would break apart into tiny little pieces and once those pieces got on your fingers, they were really difficult to get off. So there it sits in a state of decomposition in box in my office a few feet away from me. Fast forward a few years later, and here we are today on the eve of an epic remake about to be released to the public. So this remake may be welcomed with open arms and smaller budgets, but with 13 years of a legacy to go up against, how does the newer version stack up?
There aren’t many that can claim that they’ve been loyal to the brand from the beginning, and fewer still that can claim they’ve run a site dedicated to the line in the same amount of time. And with that, let’s get on with the review. It’s been released in numerous sets over the years in all kinds of scales. It’s not without it’s flaws though, and some of the issues of that older set are present in the 10240 remake, most notable being proportions. For instance, the engines intakes are way too small in relation to the humongous cockpit. Despite their small size though, they do correct one thing missing from the original and that is that vertical bar in the intakes.There is a t-shaped bar in each of the intakes and if memory serves, the original only had the cross bar and not the stem. At first glance and from far away, that t-bar is present and provides that extra bit of detail, but upon closer inspection, it doesn’t look quite right due to the curvature of the axe head.
I really enjoyed building the cockpit and it is probably one of my favorite parts of the build. It’s very nicely detailed with foot pedals, a control stick, multiple displays, and the pilot’s seat. My favorite new detail is the targeting computer. The targeting computer can’t retract so it’s always on display, always targeting something but you can flip it up and down at least.
The one thing about the fuselage that bugs me is that they never really got the shape right in the old 7191 set nor in the new 10240 version. It’s kind of hard to describe, but the sides aren’t supposed to be vertically flat. There is some semblance of a hexagonal cross section at the back section thanks to some slope bricks. In 10240 it only tapers on the sides, and not the top and bottom.
I also feel like the nose should be at least two plates thicker than the point at which its attached to, one plate above and one below. Moving away from the main hull, we have the wings. They are built in identical pairs, attaching to ship on opposing sides (top right matches bottom left, etc), which makes the build go much quicker. This is faithfully recreated nearly perfectly in 10240. There is a dial on the back of the ship that you turn that rotates a pair of levers that push the wings apart. It’s unlike a steering wheel where when you turn the wheel you’ll eventually hit the limit and you can’t turn anymore. The wings will open then close then open again for as long as you keep dialing, so you need to just eye it as to when to stop turning the dial for maximum wing deployment. There is one issue with the wings and that is when they are in flight mode. The pair of wings on the port side laid flat against each other, however the starboard pair did not.There was a noticeable gap between the two. There isn’t too much to critique when it comes to the laser cannons. They, too, are built in opposing pairs saving you some time. The display stand in 10240 also seems to want to do that as well. But after completing the build and assembling the ship on its stand, it was far too back heavy, causing the ship to only display in the one just-taking-flight position. Lucky for us though that the default display position makes the ship look great and would probably have been the preferred way. Lastly, is it too much to ask for some landing gear?
The scale issue is only apparent if you look at the final model as a whole and compare it to the original source material side by side, and not many of us are going to be displaying pictures next to their model. The true beauty of the model comes from its details and this model packs plenty of them. It is a really big model, with plenty of details everywhere that will for sure make people stare and admire it for a long while.
I will be updating this section once more information is released on some other sources regarding the part collection. If there is something that is missing from this set, is a pilot to put in the cockpit. There are several interesting pieces and different technniques utilized in the completion of the model. There is just no way, unless you spend a considerable amount of time, to make the 4 stickers that go into the cockpit fit as perfect as they should so that the cockpit looks as one unit rather than several pieces joined together. The set is very sturdy, so you could try to pick it up and “fly” around with it, but the weight factor will get in the way in a very short while, granted that to a lesser extent that on the other bigger models.
I don’t think the set will need any help to be an investment winner, but the interesting build may help some in the end. After all, it seems to be logical to compare both models instead of going ahead and make claims based on ships and sets that are vastly different from these two. Of course, comparisons like that are always useful as a general guide, but in this case the most direct and helpful comparison is between 7191 and 10240. Certainly not a bargain, but after all this is a collector’s piece and it would be extremely naive to expect it to be priced lower than what it is.
Side By Side Review
There is not a chance this set can be parted out for profit. This can be considered a good thing since most of the time it is adults that really are willing and able to spend large amounts of money to get a ship or character they really like, or just to expand their current collection. It is also the “newer” one of the three, so it still has time to grow even more. Having said that, it is pretty obvious that the model that is going to be best to predict the performance of the 10240, is the previous model of the same ship, 7191. Remember, the models are similar, but they are certainly not the same. The models are very iconic, highly detailed and most of them have a large number of pieces, all features that people are willing to pay a premium for. The historical performance of its predecessor can not be ignored, and even if 10240’s numbers are slighlty lower than 7191’s just because more investors are currently entering the market, it still has the potential to replicate at least a similar level of success that would put it as one of the best investments a couple of years after retirement. Every single detail of the model enhances its overall look and makes it look more accurate to the “real” thing. The best looking parts in this regard, in my opinion, are the cool looking engines and the laser guns on the wings.
I also like how the “nose” section of the ship seems to be smoother and better looking than on the previous model.
You can place the ship in several positions very easily, since it is not really attached to the stand, as well as use a feature on the stand itself to adjust the display angles a little bit. A few of these could be life changing, some shaped the way we think, and some are irreversible.
I chose the former, purely from the price point of view. Dimension wise, this version probably dwarfed the smaller siblings by a ratio of 2:1, measuring slightly more than 55cm in length and 50cm from wingtip to wingtip. With this scale and look, it does look darn good on any display shelf. The completed model does feel dense and solid, with exception of the pairs of wings which tend to flop around when moved. In any case, this model is not meant to be swooshable so chances of the flimsy wings being exposed will be slim. This is no exception, unless you consider the opening cockpit canopy and posable wings are “playable”. Closing the wings does have its other problem too, when the tip of the forward pointing gun turrets do get into each other’s way. The same can also be said of the details of the fuselage and four engine back burners. Then come the disappointment – the cockpit canopy. It is not as if you can rip the stickers off and re-apply again when you do a bad job, because every futile attempt to get it right will create some creases and bubbles in the transparent stickers. The fuselage section was especially interesting with most details and movable parts committed here. This is the part where my son will always make himself useful to assist with the repetitive set. They were nearly complete, missing some sticker sheets, and without retail packaging which did not affect the outcome of the review. The old being very dramatic and stylized, the new simply showing you exactly what you’re in for.The actual model is shown on the back of the box for both, as well as some close ups to highlight various features.
I know collectors will argue about to no end. We’ll start with rear section since it’s the core to both of the fighters. The old style relies on a series of small toothed gears to move the connection points apart, resulting in a lot of free movement because the teeth don’t mesh perfectly. Each point of contact compounds the amount of play, and when combined with the natural flexibility of plastic you’re left with a very soft range of motion. When the wings are attached to those the weight simply forces them down at an angle, stressing the whole assembly. Turning the knob on the back will raise the lower wings but the entire gearbox remains under strain. It feels like it could shear off a sprocket at any moment and is altogether unpleasant. Technic shock absorbers, so you don’t have to worry about it deteriorating and going limp. The wings mount to a single pivoting assembly of lift-arms that counterbalance each other, lessening the strain on the system. What you’re left with is a smaller and more effective core. The knob on the back does not have a start and end point like with the old model.
If you spin it too far you just start the open/close cycle again. This completely eliminates the risk of damaging the sprockets by over-tightening.
You can set the wings at any angle between full open and closed and they will stay balanced with ease. The old model is very finicky about when it will actually raise or lower each wing. Sometimes it will hold the bottom horizontal until the last second and drop it completely, sometimes one side will separate before the other. Now that we’ve got the technical bits covered, lets take a look at the completed rear fuselages. The old school style of 99% studs up building leaves you with an awkward brick shaped module. It’s definitely more accurate to have a flat backside, and they did a nice job of recessing the wing adjustment knob this time, but the older version with the added slopes looks slightly better to me. All together it’s a much smoother and more “starshipy” feeling construction, and this is just the boring part of the ship that you hardly get to see. The changes to the main fuselage are just as stark. The old style seems so cubist in comparison. The new build is so much sleeker without straying too much from the appearance of the source. We’re still stuck with a predominately rectangular cross-section, which most certainly doesn’t match up to the source, but that’s a hard shape to pull off within the constraints of official building methods and the result is close enough to satisfy me.
You can see how the old model used a pair of flag pieces to try to mimic the hexagonal profile it should have, but just for that one spot. In reality it should carry down the length of the nose.
You might notice from the photo above that the new model is slightly narrower here due to dropping the flags. Don’t worry, that’s being handled by the rear section and will clear up once the two halves come together. But as much as it’s been improved on the new model, it still doesn’t look quite right. The flat tip, the symmetric top and bottom profile, the mixed tones for no reason… it’s all wrong. The old version does a better job with the back edge because it carries the same basic angle to the top rather than zig-zaging, and if you squint the slopes along the front look better, but the jagged edges ruin any praise it might have earned.With the front and back sub-assemblies connected and and it starts looking like complete fuselage, the ire subsides. The nose still needs some work but it doesn’t ruin the ship. That extra bit of shaping attained by the flags on the old model is accomplished by the large smooth sloped element on the update. The main attraction in this shot however is the canopies. The only element completely unique to either kit and unique from each other.
I think they’re quite nice in moderation and are really handy for builders who want to spice up custom models.
I would have loved to get the rest of the stickers this set was supposed to come with.But without my own anti-static clean room to apply them there is no way to get to a transparent sticker of this size properly centered on the canopy without trapping a bit of dust or an air bubble and basically ruining the appearance. But honestly, for a set like this, on such a critical element, leaving it up to chance?
Obligatory rant aside, the new sticker just isn’t as good as the old one. The blue doesn’t match anything on the model. The grey edging on it doesn’t have enough contrast to stand out unless you get up crazy close.
I miss the bit of red caution striping at the top.
The canopy itself has several changes: it’s a full stud longer while holding the same height, making the slope even slighter than before. The top now has studs for no particular reason other than to turn the three sticker process into four.
I know making two special elements that hinge together is too much to ask, but hey, why not, they saved all that money by opting for stickers right?
When viewed from above, the real models only had a very narrow flat strip centered on the top of the main body, and the sides taper off to form an irregular hexagon cross-section. If they didn’t, and instead kept a truer outline from above, you’d end up with a jarring misaligned seam on either side that wouldn’t look right from any angle. The original canopy actually fits quite nicely on the new model, and the old grey doesn’t mismatch any worse than the blue, so a hybrid of the two is quite viable. The new ones are only slightly longer front to back thanks to an extra plate to fill in the gap by the rear nozzle better. On both models the full width of each wing is 22 studs. The intakes on the new model are slightly larger, very slightly, but unfortunately they look smaller due to a couple of different factors. They’re mounted closer to the center-line of the ship. This makes the wings look bigger in proportion and they aren’t as spread out once fully assembled. The undersides of the wings aren’t anything special. The old version put a little bit of effort into dressing them up with some vents/screens. The new model just relied on the connecting lift-arms to break up the monotony of plate undersides.
In this view it’s easy to see how much of a difference the larger exhaust nozzles make.
I guess even the lightest blue parts would stand out too much. Lego makes some strange color choices sometimes. Like the body of the canons switching from grey to white. If they made the whole ship grey like it should be it would be pretty bland, so instead it’s predominately white and they’re left with deciding where to drop in some highlights. It’s a difficult detail to get right and neither model is close enough to be happy with. But they get the job done better than a 2×2 inverted dish. The datasheet sticker will be bigger and fill a single 8×16 tile instead of an array of 12 1x8s. Both are meant to be displayed with the model leaning back, but the old one will also hold it’s position fairly well with the model level. This is more thanks to the square receiving port in the model being closer to it’s center of gravity than in the new version.
You can reverse the new stand 180° and the model will be almost level, but you’ll need to switch the card to the opposite side if you want to display it that way. Or you could add some weight into the front end of the fuselage to bring the center of gravity forward.