You can now take the actual motor out of the casing. Then you can undo the 2 screws in the bottom to free the metal block with the plastic gears.
It is most likely those gears that cause the squealing because of dust/dirt that got into them.
I would recommend to clean them first using a soft brush.
You can stick an axle through the bushings and turn the gears manually or rotate the big gear shown at the top with your finger. Just let the gears run against the tip of the brush.Then lubricate with a little bit (a few drops is enough) of plastic safe oil. Some of the oil you put on the gears will eventually make it into the electric motor and that should be enough. Browse other questions tagged trains motor or ask your own question . Single 2 wire lead from battery-box to motor. The entire setup is now working, using the original battery-boxes, to power the motors. My days of analog electronics are 25 years behind me.
Lego 854 Go-Kart with 4,5 Volt Motor from 1977/78!
Has someone tried something like this before?
That’s a bit over 10% increase in voltage, that’s not much. Keep the motors on and see if they get hot (that is very unlikely), then sketch down a program that switches polarity (no off time) let’s say once a second or so, and see if the pi is concerned about that.
I think my advice applies here because it seems we are talking of a guy who wants to hack together a robot or something similar. The motors operate the bridge and barriers. Pi controls the motors and the traffic lights. Whole thing is used for school-demo’s to get kids (age 9-11) interested in technology. The actual equipment is currently 300 kilometers away and that includes the schematics.
I just did the software and (part of) the mechanical build. The amount of work the motor does depends on the mechanical resistance. If you hold the motor to stop it turning then it will draw more current. The current is what causes the heat in the coils. The motion of the motor generates a field which opposes the field in the coil which drives it, so the moving of the motor is what limis the current. The good side of this is that you get enormous amounts of power when the motor is just starting. That’s really useful if you are a tram or a railway locomotive and you need to start moving a heavy load. It is bad news if you are a power supply. A big capacitor can help supply that initial current. A current limit will kick in as the motor starts for a breif period. Keep in mind that increasing the voltage increases the current pulled, and the speed and torque of the motor. If you really wanted to drop the voltage, a single silicon diode in series would work (but makes it complicated to reverse the direction). As for emi or motor surge, a flyback diode across the motor helps. They are used to powering cd and harddrive motors, as well as many hobbyist projects without any emi concerns. Why are bay leaves used whole and then removed rather than crushed up like other spices?
What fallacy uses two different standards for comparisons?
Episode 92 of Morrt’s Model Moments. Today we’re Reviewing the Lego Universal Building Set 4.5v Motor#107 Would Like to …